Making a Too-Short Zipper Work and Lining the Hood
I live in a fairly rural area, so if I don’t want to wait for a zipper to come by mail, my only real option is our JoAnn’s. They don’t carry separating zippers long enough for the bigger sizes of the Knight Hoodie, so I had to get creative! I cut four pieces of my main fabric (this would have been cool in the contrast, too!) that are about 4″ long by 2″ high. I really just eyeballed where I wanted the point of my tabs and sewed them with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
I trim the corners, turn right side out, and topstitch. I find it easier to add buttonholes now, before I attach them to the hood.
I basted them onto the hood while I was sewing on the zipper (you can see the neck seam mark by the green arrow). As you can see, I didn’t like them quite as long as I had made them, so I just moved them out about an inch.
Take your hood lining pieces and sew the center seam, just like for the hood – only you won’t have a crest in between the layers. Pin it to the hood, right sides together. Match the center seams, the inner corners of the face opening, and the points of the front seam.
The lining will go 1/2″ past the neck seam. Set a pin exactly in the stitching on each side of the hood. Sew from this pin to the same spot on the other side, backstitching at the beginning and end. Do NOT sew down that 1/2″ seam allowance.
Turn the hood right side out. Fold the un-sewn seam allowance on the lining to the wrong side and pin the lining over the neck seam. Line up the center seams.
The lining should just cover the neck seam. You may need to pull the lining slightly or fold it under slightly less than 1/2″ to make this work. Pin the whole neck line.
From the outside of the hoodie, stitch directly on the neck seam all the way around.
Moving to the waistband: fold it in half, right sides together, matching the short edges. Sew on top of the stitching you did for the zipper, again making sure to NOT sew the seam allowance at the top.
Just like for the hood lining, turn right side out, fold the seam allowance under, and pin the free edge of the waistband, covering the waist seam.
From the right side, stitch right on top of the seam (go slow over the pins or remove them just as you get to them!). Start in the middle of the back and when you get to the edge with the zipper, set your needle down, lift the foot, and turn. Put the foot back down and continue sewing. Repeat this when you get to the point at the top of the center seam and around the hood. Topstitch the whole way around until you get back to the center of the back where you started.
Doing this all in one step will give the hoodie a nice, finished feeling since there won’t be a lot of backstitching and cut threads – and it will look pretty on the inside with the neck and waist seams neatly hidden!
Lining up the Hood Armor
Still with me? Well we’re finally on the last bit! Attach the hood armor to the center of the hood and to one side, following the instructions in the pattern. Arrange the hood so it’s perfectly flat with the other side directly under this side. Poke a pin in at the very tip of the armor piece and make sure it goes all the way through.
Without moving the pin, carefully flip the hood over. Set the tip of the other side of the armor right at the pin, pin it to the hood, and sew it on.
Use the same method to add the buttons (I actually used one button and two metal studs on each side for this hoodie).
And the last step:
Enjoy the look on your child’s face when they see this :)