One of my favorite patterns is the Knight Hoodie from Charming Doodle. I’ve made it close to a dozen times now, so (with the designer’s permission) I thought I’d share some of the tips and tricks I’ve picked up along the way!
This post got super long, so I have split it into three posts – day two and day three are both up now. I’ll talk about lining the hood, making a contrast-color crest, fully enclosing the waistband seam, how to make a too-short zipper work, and ways to make sure everything is lined up perfectly. I’m assuming you already have the Knight Hoodie pattern as you will need the pattern pieces and the directions for most of the construction. Most of these tricks will work with other zippered hoodie patterns, too.
You’ll need to take your hood piece and measure how high the crest section is. Use that measurement to re-draw the line of the hood.
Mark on the hood piece where the crest begins and ends and be sure to label the crest piece. Remember that you’ll need to add 1/2″ seam allowance to the inner edge of the crest. I don’t add seam allowance to the hood itself since it’s a fairly roomy fit. This will take away some of the hood depth, so if you’re worried about it not being big enough to fit over the head, you may want to go up a size.
Cut your pattern piece apart and cut the hood from your main fabric just like normal. If you’re lining the hood, cut the lining using the hood piece as well. Cut two mirrored crest pieces from the contrast fabric. Sew the outer edges together, starting and ending at the black arrows. Trim the corners. For the outer curve, I use my pinking shears to trim, but you could cut a series of notches instead. Turn right side out and topstitch if desired.
Transfer the beginning and ending marks you made on the hood pattern to the hood itself. Pin the crest to one hood piece, starting at the ends (which should be lined up with the marks you just made) and working your way to the middle. Lay the other piece on top, right sides together, pin, and sew.
I like to trim off the bulky corners of the crest to help everything lie better.
Turn right side out and admire!
Embellishing the Back
I love using freezer paper stencils on the back of the hoodie to add even more interest. The easiest way to make sure your stencil is centered and won’t be covered by the shoulder armor is to lay the armor pieces on the back before you sew anything. Remember that the shoulders will have a seam allowance but the armor pieces won’t, so slide them down 1/2″ from the edge. Position your stencil (or other embellishment) and pin/iron it on before moving the armor.