Austin Jeans Testing

I’m an so excited (and rather nervous, to be honest) about my latest project: I’m working on a men’s jeans pattern! (Interested in testing? Apply below!)

Austin Jeans Technical Drawing by Momma Quail PatternsI got a menswear drafting book months ago and have been too afraid to do more than look at the pictures. But I finally put on my big girl panties and got started. And surprise! Pretesting went really well, with just some minor changes!

These are a relaxed, straight leg jean, with classic five-pocket styling and a lot of ready-to-wear inspired details to make them look… not-so-homemade, if you know what I mean… ;) If you’ve made the Walker or Billie Jeans (or any jeans, really), these will be a piece of cake! A bigger piece of cake, but still cake!

If you are interested in testing, you can apply here. The due date for feedback and modeled pictures is July 27th. Be prepared to sew a quick muslin (I like to use denim or linen fabric for the muslin because I can cut open the seams and still have enough fabric to make pants or shorts for my boys). There is a lot of topstitching and you don’t want to get a beautiful pair of jeans, only to find they don’t fit!

For sizing, be sure to measure your victim’s…er, model’s… hips. Andy wears a 34 or 36 in RTW, but his actual hips measure 39″. I guess RTW does vanity sizing for men as well as women!

Men's Measurement Chart • Momma Quail PatternsFor fabric, I recommend using a mid-weight fabric, like denim, corduroy, twill, or duck. Heavy fabrics make a lot of bulk and a home machine may not be able to handle the layers (trust me on that!). I like to use a light weight fabric like quilting cotton for the lining. Bonus: it’s the perfect place to use that Star Wars fabric I’ve been hoarding!

Requirements are based on 54-60” wide fabric and is given in yards. More may be required for print or stripe matching. You may want to get an extra 1/4 yard to allow for any shrinking in the wash.

Sizes 32 – 38: 1 3/4 yards main fabric
Sizes 40 – 46: 2 yards main fabric
All sizes: 1/2 yard lining fabric – 44/45” wide lightweight fabric such as quilting cotton
7” – 9” zipper (metal is more traditional, but plastic will also work)
Button or snap for the fly. Using a jean button will give a professional finish
Heavy duty denim needle
Optional: jean rivets
Optional: jean thread
Optional: small scrap of leather or pleather for the tag in back

I’m also collecting tips for working with topstitching thread (or cheats for making regular thread look like topstitching thread). My machine HATES t/s thread so I’ve always used regular thread (my kids don’t care! Yet, anyway…), but I really want to have a lot of ways to make these look like professional pants (so our husbands will actually wear them, am I right?). If you have any great ideas, please comment and let me know!

I’m hoping to have a lot of fun with this test and hope you will, too! Here’s the link to the application again :)

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